Pet Nail Trimming – How to Properly Trim Your Pets Nails

Pet nail trimming can be difficult.  Pets at times may squirm, whine, or worse-growl and bite.  By knowing beforehand the proper way to do pet nail trimming, you may be able to save your dog or cat (and yourself!) some distress.  But if your pet simply refuses to cooperate, becomes aggressive, or if you just don’t feel comfortable doing it yourself, it may be better to let a professional groomer or veterinarian do your pet’s nail trimming.

Pet nail trimming is so important.  Long overgrown nails will drag on the ground and make walking or running uncomfortable for your pet.  This, in turn, could result in soreness or other problems further up the leg.  Dewclaws (the sixth toenail that’s found higher up on the paw near a pet’s “ankle”) that are not trimmed regularly can curve back into the skin, which is very painful, and cause infection.  Although it’s common for many dogs to have their rear dewclaws removed when they’re young pups, dewclaws on their front legs often remain.  Cats have them, as well.

In addition to trimming nails for health reasons, a pet’s blunt nail tips are less likely to hurt you or your furniture by scratching.

So how often should you trim your pet’s nails?  Generally, dogs will need their nails clipped once every one or two weeks.  Cats’ nails will need trimming about once a month, or maybe more for older cats.  If you hear a scratching noise as your pet walks across the linoleum or on concrete, his nails are too long!

For Rover’s manicure, be sure to use only nail trimmers that are designed for dogs. For Kitty, you can use either specially made cat nail trimmers or human nail clippers.  Never use scissors!

If your pet is not used to or is nervous about having his nails trimmed, be sure to start slowly. In fact, don’t even bring out the trimmers the first few days.  Instead, gently lift each paw and just pet it or massage it to get your cat or dog used to having his feet handled.  Reward him afterward with praise or a yummy treat.  When you’re ready to actually clip a nail, do so in a relaxed, quiet area of the house where you won’t be disturbed.  You may want to begin by clipping the nails on only one paw, or even just one or two nails on a paw, if Kitty or Rover becomes restless or fearful.  Above all else, you want to make this as pleasant an experience for him as you can.  So don’t rush it!

Since cats can retract their claws you’ll need to gently press Kitty’s paw between your finger and thumb to expose the nail.  In both dogs and cats, trim only the end of the nail, at the point where it begins to curve downward.  And trim only small amounts at a time, so that you’re less likely to cut the “quick” of the nail.  The quick contains the nerves and blood supply, so if you cut it, you’ll know it and so will your pet!  Cutting the quick is painful and will make Rover or Kitty bleed.  If bleeding occurs, sprinkle a clotting powder such as cornstarch or press a styptic pencil (a stick of a medicated clotting substance) on the nail tip.  If necessary, hold a gauze pad firmly to the nail until the bleeding stops.

The quick is easy to see and avoid in white nails-it’s the pink part.  Always cut below the pink line.  Dark nails are trickier, though.  It’s hard to tell where the quick is until you’ve cut it. So when trimming dark nails, be conservative.  Go slowly and only trim the curved part of the nail.

If you’re new at trimming your pet’s nails, watch your veterinarian or groomer do it first, and then let him or her talk you through it as you try it.  With practice, both you and your four-legged friend will learn that nail trims really aren’t that bad.  But if you still feel uncomfortable, there’s certainly no shame in letting a professional perform the manicure.

Traveling With Your Dog or Cat in the Car

Traveling with your dog or cat in the car can be difficult in your don’t prepare ahead of time. Here are a few tips to make traveling with your dog or cat in the car easier.

If your pet is not accustomed to the car, take it for a few short rides before the trip. This can help keep your pet from becoming nervous or agitated, and may lessen the effects of motion sickness. If, after a number of practice trips, your pet continues to cry excessively or becomes sick, consult your veterinarian.

Buckling up is an important safety precaution for your pet. Many states now require that pets be restrained while in a moving vehicle, and restraints have several advantages. They help protect pets in case of a collision, and they keep pets from running loose and distracting the driver. They also keep pets from escaping the car through an open window or door. Cats and smaller dogs are often most comfortable in pet carriers, which can be purchased in various sizes at most pet stores.

Carriers give many animals a sense of security and familiar surroundings, and can be secured to the car seat with a seat belt or a specially designed carrier restraint. There are also pet restraints available that can be used without carriers, including harnesses, seat belt attachments, pet car seats, vehicle barriers, and truck/pickup restraint systems. No matter what kind of restraint you use, be sure that it does not permit your pet’s head to extend outside the car window. If pets ride with their heads outside the car, particles of dirt can penetrate the eyes, ears, and nose, causing injury or infections. Excessive amounts of cold air taken into lungs can also cause illness.

While packing for your trip, remember to throw in a few of your pet’s favorite toys, food and water bowls, a leash, and food. You should also carry a first aid kit for your pet, and know basic pet first aid. If your pet is on medication, be sure to have plenty for the trip — and then some.  Veterinarians cannot write a prescription without a prior doctor/patient relationship. This means that in order to get any drugs, your pet will need to be examined first by a new doctor. This may be inconvenient if you need medication right away. Also, if your pet is on a special therapeutic diet, bring along an extra supply in case you can’t find the food in a strange area.

Stick to your regular feeding routine while traveling, and give your pet its main meal at the end of the day or when you’ve reached your destination. It will be more convenient to feed dry food if your pet is used to it. Dispose of unused canned food unless it can be refrigerated. Take along a plastic jug of cold water to avoid possible stomach upset the first day, as new areas can have minerals or bacteria in their water supply that pets need time to adjust to. Give your pet small portions of both food and water and plan to stop every two hours for exercise.

Consider having your pet examined before you leave as well, to check for any developing problems.  Have your current veterinarian’s phone number handy in case of an emergency. Also, be sure to travel with a copy of your pet’s medical records, especially if the animal has a difficult medical history.

Find hotels, motels, and campsites that accept animals and book them ahead of time. Click here to view hotels that accept animals.

To avoid losing your pet during a trip, make sure your pet is wearing an i.d. tag. To be doubly protected, consider having your pet tattooed or having a microchip implanted. Keep in mind the more methods of identification, the better chance that the owner will be found. Microchip databases are specific to the United States and Canada, so register your pet in both countries if you will be driving from one to the other. You can also register the name and phone number of a relative who can identify the pet in case the owner can’t be reached while traveling.

It’s important to carry health and rabies vaccine certificates, particularly if you will be crossing the border into Canada, the US, or Mexico. All three countries allow dogs and cats to enter if they meet stringent entry requirements. Depending on the country, exotic pets may be allowed to enter, though they may need further documentation. Call the Agriculture Department or embassy of the country or state to which you are traveling for information on the vaccinations, documentation, fees, or quarantine that may be required to bring your pet into the country.

Most importantly, try to plan ahead for unusual or emergency situations. What you don’t need in the middle of a trip is one more thing to worry about. People get into a panic if they don’t have enough medication for their pet, no appropriate documentation for travel to other countries, or money to pay for border fees. Be prepared by bringing a copy of your pet’s medical records, proper documentation and medication and knowing the laws going into the new city or country. Preparation is the most effective way to help ensure a smooth, enjoyable trip for you and your pet.

Traveling With Your Pet

Traveling with your pet usually involves more than putting the animal in a car and/or plane, especially if you’re moving or traveling far away. Before you start traveling with your pet, here are a list of things to do before the trip.

First, make sure you locate a local veterinarian or pet hospital that is close to where you are staying.  This way, you will be well prepared in advance in case anything happens.  Email the veterinarian for pictures, a price list (if possible), check reviews online and do your research.  Drop by the vet’s office when you arrive and make sure that it meets your expectations in the areas of cleanliness, caring and well-trained staff, reasonable fees, and convenient hours.

Next, make sure you always have your current veterinarian’s phone number handy in case of an emergency or if the temporary veterinarian needs more information about your pet.

If your pet has any medical problems, make sure they are examined before the trip.   Some countries require a full exam and health certificate, and the United States and Canada require a valid rabies certificate.  Make sure you discuss this with your veterinarian.  It is always a good idea to travel with a copy of your pet’s medical records, especially if the animal has a difficult medical history.

If your pet is on medication, be sure to have plenty for the trip and then some.  Veterinarians cannot write a prescription without a prior doctor/patient relationship.  This means that in order to get any drugs, your pet will need to be examined first by its new doctor.  This may be inconvenient if you need medication right away.  You may want to ask your current veterinarian for a prescription before you travel.

If your pet is on a special therapeutic diet, purchase an extra supply in case you can’t find the food right away in your new area.

Carry a first aid kit for your pet. While first aid is no substitute for veterinary care, knowing basic first aid could save your pet’s life.

Do your research and make sure the hotels you are staying at accept animals.  Click here to view hotels that accept animals.

Thinking of using a boarding kennel? Get recommendations from your veterinarian and make sure your pet’s vaccines are up-to-date.

If traveling by plane, call the airline in advance to check out regulations and services and to make reservations. Some airlines will allow pets in the cabin, but you will need to purchase a special airline crate that fits under the seat in front of you.

Learn more about your new area. Your veterinarian can tell you if there are any diseases like heartworm or Lyme disease and vaccinations or medications your pet may require. Also, be aware of any unique laws. Some places have restrictions on exotic animals (ferrets are not allowed in some cities),and there are restrictive breed laws in others, such as no pit bulls allowed. Your pet could be affected by these laws, so call ahead to the city or travel information bureau for more information.

If you’re traveling between countries, it’s important to carry a rabies vaccine certificate. Expect your pet to be quarantined in certain locations. Hawaii has a 120-day quarantine period, and the United Kingdom has a six-month quarantine period. Call the Agriculture Department or embassy of the country or state to where you are traveling for information on special documents, quarantine, and additional costs to bring the animal into the country.

Canada has an automatic veterinary inspection for $35 at the border for pets entering from countries other than the United States. New Zealand has mandatory microchip implanting and a $10 scan fee at the border. Make sure you have the right kind of currency and enough of it to pay any fees or your pet will be boarded.

To avoid losing your pet during a move, make sure your pet is wearing an ID tag. To be doubly protected, consider having your pet tattooed or having a microchip implanted. The more methods of identification,the better chance that the owner will be found. Microchip databases are specific to the United States and Canada, so register your pet in both if moving between these countries. You should also register the name and phone number of a relative who can identify the pet in case the owner can’t be reached while traveling.

Overall, make sure you have enough medication for your pet, appropriate documentation for travel to other countries,or money to pay for border fees. Be prepared by bringing a copy of your pet’s medical records, proper documentation and medication, and know the laws before going into the new city or country.

Dog Exercises – Exercises for Dogs

Exercise For Dogs 101

Dogs can be great fun to exercise, because they can get you out and moving yourself.  You don’t want to hit the ground running with your pooch, though.  Just like people who aren’t used to exercise, exercise for dogs that aren’t used to it should start off slow.

Begin with a visit to the veterinarian to discuss your plans and ensure your dog has a clean bill of health.  After your veterinarian gives you the go-ahead, start your dog on suitable exercise for beginners.

Moderately paced walking and swimming are a good way to start–they let canine athletes build their cardiovascular and muscle strength without putting undue stress on their joints. A daily ten- to 15-minute walking or swimming session is a good start; you can build to an hour a day if your dog seems up to it.

If, after a few months, he’s doing well and can handle long, fast walks without fatigue, he can graduate to jogging with you.  Once he’s adapted to the exercise, you and your dog can run and walk to your heart’s content, if you take a few precautions:

• Keep a close eye on your dog: watch for any unusual signs of fatigue or trouble breathing. If your pup wants to stop, let him. Dogs that overdo it can suffer strained tendons or ligaments or other orthopedic problems.
• Don’t expect your fuzzy buddy to be a weekend warrior, even if you only get exercise on the weekends yourself. After a long week without exercise, your dog may be ready to get out and burn off energy. But because of their enthusiasm, many of the popular breeds, such as Labrador and golden retrievers, will overdo it.
• Safety first–keep Rover on a leash when you run. Even the best-trained dogs can run into the path of a car or a territorial animal. And if you have to run when it’s dark out, put reflectors on your dog’s collar as well as on your clothes.
• Concrete and asphalt are tough on the paws, especially on hot days. Try to run on dirt paths or grass as much as possible. Gravel, cinders, and road salt can also irritate paws.
• Take it easy in extreme weather. If it’s freezing cold or hot and steamy out, either keep your run short or play a little indoor fetch instead.
• The more active your dog is, the more water he’ll need. Make sure he has plenty of fresh water before and after your run. If you’re going for a long run, take some water along for him.

If your dog is getting bored with running or walking, take heart: there are other ways to get him the exercise he needs.  A 15-minute game of fetch makes for a good workout. Supervised play with other dogs is a good option too.

Tug-of-war is not a good game because it can damage his teeth and may increase aggressive behavior.  If you have the time and your dog has the inclination, you could even try running him through some agility obstacle courses, which incorporate a range of activities.  If you’re interested, your veterinarian may know of a dog agility organization in your area.

The Importance of Exercise For Pets

You know exercise is good for you.  You know that exercise can give you energy, help you maintain a healthy weight, keep your muscles and joints flexible, help you live longer, and above all, make you feel better.  So what about exercise for your pets?  For all the same reasons, your pets need to get up and get moving.  Not only can exercise extend your furry friends’ lives; it may also expend some of their nervous energy and make them a little less likely to chew on the living room drapes.

The thing is, without someone to lead the way, your pet may not run laps or do leg lifts in their spare time!  So as a wonderful pet parent, part of your job is ensuring your animal family members get safe, enjoyable exercise on a regular basis–whether they’re cats, dogs, turtles, or ferrets!  All pets need some physical activity to live a happy, healthy life.

Different pets need different amounts of exercise, so you’ll want to talk to your veterinarian before starting your pet’s workout program.  With your veterinarian’s approval, you can embark on an exercise program that won’t seem like work at all–to your pet, it’s play.

Exercise For Pets In Cages

Yes, your pets in cages need exercise as well. Some small exotic pets, such as mice, geckos, turtles, or small birds, can get enough exercise simply moving around their cage. Larger animals, however, may lose muscle tone or become obese if they don’t get enough activity. There are a few ways to make sure your exotic gets moving:

• In the cage. Some pocket pets and birds can get plenty of activity with toys inside their cage. The well-known hamster wheel is an excellent way for hamsters, gerbils, and rats to burn off extra energy. Also, most pet stores carry sections of plastic pipe that you can attach to your pocket pet’s cage for extra running room. Climbing ladders and hanging mirrors and bells can help keep birds active and moving around their cage.
• Letting them out. If it can be done safely and you can watch him closely, letting your exotic pet out of the cage is an excellent way for him to stretch and move his muscles. If your pet is small enough, you can put him in a “hamster ball” and watch him roam. Some larger animals like rabbits, iguanas, and birds can safely explore your living room if you watch them carefully; be particularly watchful for rabbits, guinea pigs, and the like chewing on electrical cords.
• Getting fresh air. Building a small, securely covered outside pen may be a good idea if you have an exotic pet. Most larger exotic animals–including rabbits, guinea pigs, hedgehogs, snakes, iguanas, and turtles–will enjoy some time in the sun and the grass, provided they are protected from predators. You’ll just need to make sure they’re always supervised and that your lawn hasn’t been treated with any chemicals.
• Swimming. Believe it or not, swimming can be great exercise for reptiles. Many snakes and lizards are thrilled to slither or paddle around in a few inches of water. Because they carry salmonella, reptiles shouldn’t swim in a bathtub or swimming pool used by people. Instead, you can buy a children’s wading pool and keep it just for your pets’ use.
• Making them fly. If you have an overweight bird that refuses to fly, you’ll need to coax him to walk and to move his wings. One trick to get him to flap is to hold him on your arm and move that arm up and down; he’ll move his wings to keep his balance.
• Going for a stroll. With training, some rabbits and iguanas can actually learn to enjoy walking on a leash with a harness.

Whatever their species, animals’ need for exercise is just as vital to their health as their need for shelter, good food, and clean water. For help in designing an exercise plan for your pet, contact your veterinarian.

Cat Exercise – Exercise for Cats

Cat Exercise?

I know what you may be thinking. Making my cat exercise? Are you kidding me? Cats can make laziness into an art form: snoozing in the afternoon sun, stretching a little before they plop down on your lap for the night.  But as immobile as they seem, they still need to get up and moving on a regular basis.

Cats are a bit different than dogs, however–they’re designed for short, frequent periods of intense activity, rather than longer, slower-paced exercise sessions.

Click Here to Order Cat Toys

There are some wonderful toys you can buy to get your cat active, including kitty trees that will let her climb to the ceiling and mechanical animals she can chase around the room. There’s no reason to reach into your wallet for toys your cat may or may not like, however, when there is endless entertainment around the house.

There are a few main ways you can entice your kitty into activity:

• Things she can bat.  Anything light that moves easily across the floor can give your cat a chance to practice hitting and chasing. Balled up pantyhose and paper work well; for some reason the rings that come off of milk jug caps also seem to be irresistible.  Just make sure that she’s not batting anything she could chew up or swallow.
• Things she can chase.  The end of a moving string should bring out the predator in even the most sedentary cat.  Again, just make sure she doesn’t swallow the string.
• Things she can explore.  Empty boxes and paper bags may get your cat to climb in, out, and on top.
• Things she can scratch.  Scratching stretches and tones the muscles in your cat’s shoulders and back.  A scratching post–or even a piece of cardboard or carpet–can keep her active without shredding your sofa.

Whatever game you play with your cat, don’t use your hand or fingers as “bait” or as the object of teasing.  This teaches him that it is all right to scratch and bite your hands–a lesson you will want your cat to unlearn in the future.

The key is to find out which kind of toy is the most tempting to your cat and to use it consistently.  You may have to try a lot of different activities to before you find your kitty’s favorite.  Some cats can even be trained to walk outside on a leash.

Click Here to Order Cat Toys

Parasites in Dogs and Cats

Intestinal parasites in dogs and cats are one of the most common issues that pet owners have to deal with. But, unpleasant as it may seem, pet owners should be aware of worms and other parasites that can affect their animals’ health. Cats and dogs are the favorite nesting grounds of four principal groups of worms and a few species of microscopic protozoa. The four worms are roundworms, tapeworms, hookworms, and whipworms. Among the protozoa are coccidia, toxoplasma, giardia, and ameba.

Proper identification is vital. Unfortunately, in the case of parasites, identification isn’t always easy because adult worms release their eggs sporadically. Knowing exactly what the problem is, is the first step in finding a solution.

It’s very important to bring your pet’s fecal sample (bowel movement) to your veterinarian as often as requested up to one year of age. Collect fresh fecal sample within 12 hours of an examination. It is also very important to keep the samples cool or refrigerated. A microscopic examination of the fecal sample will be performed to identify the worm’s eggs.

An annual fecal check is also good preventive medicine.

Treatment begins once the specific parasites are identified. It’s important to realize that different parasites will require different medications. Your veterinarian can administer the proper treatment for your pet. There are also some new preventive medicines on the market. Check with your veterinarian about whether these are appropriate for your pet.

Tapeworms are of special concern. Tapeworm segments resemble small pieces of rice. They are one of the few parasites that may be seen in a bowel movement or clinging to the hair near your pet’s tail. If you notice these segments, carefully place them in a small container and take them to your veterinarian for positive identification along with a fecal sample. Several types of worms may be involved, and it is important to identify all of them for proper treatment.

Once identification is made, the proper deworming medication must be administered. With some intestinal worms, treatment of the environment also may be needed. Most treatments take only a few days. However, periodic checking is necessary to be sure that all intestinal worms have been eliminated. A fecal sample should be reexamined about three to four weeks after the deworming. Your veterinarian may request an additional fecal sample at a later date.

Once the problem is treated, it makes sense to prevent reinfection. Bowel movements are the greatest source of most worms. To avoid worms, keep your pet away from areas where other animals have relieved themselves and dispose of bowel movements as quickly as possible in your own yard.

Under some conditions of poor hygiene, worms can be transmitted to humans. Discuss the risk of human exposure with your veterinarian.

A change in appetite, coughing, diarrhea (sometimes with blood), weight loss, a rough-dry coat, or just an overall poor appearance are symptoms caused by intestinal worms. If you suspect the presence of parasites, consult your veterinarian immediately. Sometimes healthy, well-fed pets do not show signs of intestinal parasites.

Always seek veterinary advice before deworming your pet.

Raw Dog Food by Carina Beth Macdonald Book Review

Pages: 86

Published: 2004

The Good: Straight to the point, easy to follow book about raw dog feeding.

The Bad: The author does not feed her dog entirely raw.

The Bottom Line: Raw Dog Food: Make It Easy for You and Your Dog by Carina Beth Macdonald is an excellent book to read if you are curious about the raw dog food diet and need a general introduction to this type of feeding style.

Raw Dog Food is mostly one person’s personal account into how to properly do raw dog feeding. Don’t worry though, the author, Carina Beth Macdonald, has had lots of experience with raw dog feeding. She has fed many dogs in the past a raw dog food diet with great success.

This fun and easy to read book covers everything from why you should feed raw, the benefits of feeding raw, how to feed raw even for puppies and senior dog citizens, supplements you should incorporate into your raw dog food diet and much much more.

Note that Carina doesn’t feed her dog all raw. So if you are a die hard hardcore raw feeder, her occasional account of an un-raw snack like a pizza crust, may irk you.

The book has 10 chapters which are:

1. Why I Started Feeding Raw Dog Food
2. A Raw Diet – What Nature Intended
3. Myths, Fears and Anxieties
4. Raw Materials
5. The Raw Food Factory
6. Putting It All Together
7. Customize Your Feeding
8. Problem Solving
9. The Straight Poop
10. Waggin’ Tale End

Our favourite chapters are #9 – The Straight Poop, which talks about what healthy dog poop should look like and what different types of dog poop means. Hint: Healthy dog poop should be light, odorless, small and quite firm. Also, it should turn white after a few days in nature, which then you can just step on it and let mother nature take it back. And #3 Myths, Fears and Anxieties, which talks about issues that people have with switching to a raw dog food diet.

This book also gets bonus points in our book as Carina uses the Vitamix to blend some of her raw dog food “glop” together! We highly recommend the Vitamix for both human and dog use.

Overall, we recommend this book to any person who is just getting into the raw dog food diet and wants to have a good overview about this style of feeding. For about $10, this book is well worth the money if it can convince you to put your dog on a raw dog food diet. Which we think it will.

Pet Allergies – How to Treat Your Cat and Dogs Allergies

Just like people, animals have allergic reactions because their immune system, the system that protects the body from foreign and potentially infectious substances, overreacts. Almost anything can set off an alarm in the immune system, causing it to pump out large amounts of white blood cells, hormones, and other material called histamines into the bloodstream.

These include pollen, dust, an ingredient in pet food, a household chemical, and an insect bite. The result in animals can be a range of different effects, including itchy, swollen skin–known as pruritis–difficulty breathing, or a disruption of the digestive tract such as vomiting or diarrhea. These symptoms are the animal equivalent of a person’s sneezing, runny nose, and watery eyes.

The good news is that there’s a lot you can do to help your dogs and cats feel better. The best way to start is to find out what your pet is allergic to, so you can keep the allergen out of his environment. Dog and cat allergies generally fall under one of four main categories.

Contact Allergies

These are the least common type of allergy in animals. They happen when an animal’s skin comes in contact with the material he’s allergic to–if he rubs his face against a wool blanket, for example, and he’s allergic to wool. The chemicals in flea collars can cause this problem as well.

The skin at the point of contact will be irritated–it may itch, become thickened or discolored, have a strong odor, and/or lose hair due to constant biting or scratching. Contact allergies are generally not a hard problem to solve–they’re usually confined to a specific area of an animal’s body, and the allergen shouldn’t take too much work to discover. You can try removing different materials that your pet touches until you find the one that irritates his skin.

Food Allergies

Diet can be a complicated factor in pet allergies. Most animals are not born with allergies to food; their immune systems develop an allergic response over time to some part of their diet, often one of the animal proteins. A food allergy can present in a lot of different ways, including the itching, digestive disorders, and respiratory distress already mentioned. They can be a real challenge to solve, however.

You can try to figure out what’s causing your pet’s allergic reaction by feeding him different diets, but the allergic effects of food can stay in the system for eight weeks. You may have to keep your furry friend on a special hypoallergenic (non-allergy-causing) diet for eight to twelve weeks to see how he reacts, and you may have to do it several times with several different diets before you find one that doesn’t cause an allergic reaction.

And while you’re feeding these test diets, you’ll have to make very sure that your pet doesn’t eat any treats, vitamins, leftovers or scraps, or even plants around the house. He has to eat the test diet exclusively for the entire eight to twelve weeks to determine whether he has an allergic reaction to it.

Inhalant Allergy

Inhalant allergies are the kind we humans are most used to. Just like us, our pets get hay fever, meaning they can be allergic to the pollen and mold that fills the outside air during the spring and fall. They can also be allergic to the dust mites, mildew, and mold that can be inside every home.

These kinds of allergens usually produce severe itching in pets, which is usually concentrated in the ears, feet, groin, and armpits, though it can be spread across the entire body. Dogs in particular may develop hairless, irritated “hot spots” from constantly chewing on and scratching the affected skin.

Most animals that are allergic to airborne particles are usually allergic to more than one. Often, they will only experience itching during the pollen-heavy seasons of the year, just like humans with hay fever. If you find that your pet’s allergies seem to be seasonal, you may be able to limit his outdoor time during allergy season. Your pet may be reacting to an indoor allergen, however, or an allergen that doesn’t vary by season. In that case, there’s not much you can do to keep him away from whatever he’s allergic to, though an air filter might provide some relief.

Flea Allergies

This is an extremely common problem for pets, possibly the most common allergy of all. Animals aren’t actually allergic to the fleas themselves, but to proteins that fleas secrete in their saliva when they bite. Your pet doesn’t have to be a walking flea circus to suffer from an allergy, either.

Affected animals can itch severely from a single bite for over five days! So, if you suspect your pet is allergic to fleas, you’re going to have to work very hard to keep the little pests away. Frequent baths are a good idea, as are the prescription flea applications and pills.

Consult your veterinarian when you chose a flea repellent for your pet, though; the wrong kind or too strong of a concentration could cause irritated skin, seizures, and even death in extreme cases. You will also want to treat your pet’s environment, including any bedding or carpeting he comes in contact with.

Other Types of Allergies

What makes allergies hard to deal with is that in many cases, you either won’t be able to determine exactly what is causing the reaction or won’t be able to remove it from your pet’s environment. This is where your veterinarian comes into the picture.

You and your veterinarian will probably have to work together to determine the best treatment, or combination of treatments, for your pet’s allergy. You may have to go through a series of trying a possible solution, waiting to see how your pet reacts to it, and moving on to another solution. Your veterinarian may suggest one or more of the following things:

* Testing – Your veterinarian has a few different tools to help determine the source of your pet’s allergy. Intradermal or “scratch” tests involve making small abrasions in an animal’s skin and inserting small amounts of materials that the veterinarian suspects the pet might be allergic to. If the animal is allergic to one of the materials, say dust mites or ragweed pollen, the immune system will react to it and that particular scratch will become inflamed. There are also a number of blood tests your veterinarian can use to analyze the amount of certain chemicals that the immune system releases into the bloodstream when exposed to different allergens. These tests can be used to tell whether your pet is having an allergic reaction or whether the problem is caused by something else, and sometimes they can determine the source of the allergy.

* Steroids – These drugs work to suppress the immune system and make the allergic reaction less severe. Steroid treatment can help your pet even if you can’t determine what he’s allergic to or how he’s being exposed. They can have several side effects, however, and they affect nearly every organ in the body. Steroid use can cause weight gain, increased thirst and urination, and increased aggression and other behavioral changes. They are generally used if the allergy occurs for a short amount of time, because long-term use makes animals more prone to infection, as well as susceptible to diabetes and seizures.

* Immunotherapy – This is one of the safest and most effective ways to treat allergies, but it also takes the longest amount of time to work. In immunotherapy, animals are given regulary–often weekly–vaccinations that contain small amounts of the substance they’re allergic to. The same therapy is used for people who go in for allergy shots. It gradually desensitizes the immune system to the allergen, meaning that as time goes by, the immune system is reprogrammed and doesn’t react to the allergen as strongly. Unfortunately, it takes some time for the immune system to readjust. It can sometimes be six to twelve months before animals show any improvement from the treatment.

* Antihistamines - These drugs, much like the allergy medication people take, work to block the chemicals released by the immune system, called histamines. They are effective at reducing itching and inflammation, and they are relatively safe to use. Their major drawback is that they cause sedation, and can make pets extremely drowsy and sluggish. Occasionally, they can change an animal’s energy level enough to affect his quality of life.

* Symptomatic Treatment – Even if none of the above treatments are effective, you can still give your pet a lot of relief by simply treating his symptoms as they come up. There are a number of soothing shampoos on the market that contain ingredients like oatmeal or Epsom salts. Your veterinarian may also be able to suggest ointments, ear treatments, or sprays that can make your pet more comfortable. Be cautious about using home remedies or herbal treatments on your pet, however. Consult with your veterinarian before trying any new treatment, because you could damage your pet’s skin or aggravate the allergic reaction. Most of all, remember that while you can give these symptomatic treatments often, they will only provide temporary relief. If your pet still seems uncomfortable despite the baths or other treatments, you can talk to your veterinarian about long-term treatment.

How to Treat Your Cat and Dogs Allergies

*Homeopathics for Dog and Cat Allergies – Simple Medicinals Skin Allergies Oral Spray for Pets is a pharmaceutical-grade homeopathic formula designed for relief from symptoms of chronic airborne allergies, such as dry, flaky skin, constant chewing, and scratching. Click here to learn more about Simple Medicinals Skin Allergies Homeopathic Oral Spray for Cats and Dogs.

*Flower Essences for Allergies – Allergies are a more common problem in pets than one might think. Food, grasses, pollens, pollutants in the environment and more can cause difficulties for animals. Pets are very responsive to the energetic healing properties of Flower Essences.

The energetic bouquets from Pet Essences are both dynamic and gentle in their transformational abilities. By using the appropriate Flower Essences to balance the emotional attitudes of your dog or cat, subtle changes occur that bring renewed energy forward and short circuit the path to illness.Click here to learn more about Pet Essences Allergies Flower Essences.

* Herbal Allergy Formula – Safe, effective and wallet friendly. This is a great alternative to drugs. We recommend Doc Ackerman’s Herbal Allergy Relief Formula for Dogs and Cats. This herbal remedy designed for pets that have severe allergy problems. It comes in a convenient powder form that you mix with food or water.

Keep these few things in mind when using herbal remedies:

• Herbs take time to build in the system, so do not expect immediate results. It can take from several days up to a week or more to know if the herbal remedy is effective depending upon the severity of the issue being treated and the overall vitality of the animal.
• More frequent dosage – say 3 times per day, is typically more effective than a large dose once per day. The herbs need to remain and build in the animal’s system.
• Suggested dosages may need to be adjusted depending on the individual’s response. If vomiting, diarrhea or other signs of intolerance occur; a remedy should be stopped for two days, and then ½ the original dose can be administered to see if the lower dose can be tolerated. If the animal does not respond to the initial dose, a larger dose may be necessary. A VERY GRADUAL increase to up to 50% above the original dose can be tried to see if results are improved. This should be done with the guidance of a trained veterinarian or with a good knowledge of the herbs you are using.
• Begin only one remedy or medication of any kind at a time. Do not add another remedy until you have well established if there is a response or are signs of intolerance from any other remedy being used. (Unless you are working with a holistic veterinarian familiar with the remedies prescribed).
• Herbs and natural remedies work best on an individual whose system is given the best possible conditions for health and healing including the healthiest and freshest diet possible along with proper nutritional and digestive supplements such as digestive enzymes, essential fatty acids and adequate levels of essential vitamins and minerals.
• Check with a knowledgeable veterinarian if your companion is on any conventional medications that herbal remedies could interact with.

Pet Skin Problems – Common Pet Skin Conditions

Skin problems for dogs and cats are very commonplace due to our furry friend’s poor diets.  Kibble and cat food don’t usually have enough nutrients and healthy oils for your pets skin and fur.  It is important to understand that the skin is an organ, just as the liver and kidneys are organs.

The skin functions as a barrier to protect the body from infection, caustic substances, ultra violet light and dehydration.  Good health and proper function of the skin is dependent on the health and function of the other organs that make up our pets’ bodies.

Diseases that affect the skin can be placed into one of two categories, primary and secondary skin disease.  Primary skin diseases are those that affect the skin directly, such as mange or flea and tick hypersensitivities.  Secondary diseases are those that initially involve other organs, and thereby affect the skin, such as hypothyroidism.

The diagnosis and treatment of skin diseases can be difficult and time consuming. The following are some of the common diseases and conditions affecting the skin.  A brief description of their diagnosis and treatments is provided.

Common Diseases and Conditions Affecting the Skin

Allergies

Humans with allergies usually react by sneezing, but your pet reacts by scratching. Both you and your pet are reacting to an allergen, which is a substance that causes sensitivity. Most allergens are inhaled, but a few are the contact type, such as an allergy to wool.

Some allergens are found in food, most commonly corn, wheat, soy, beef and dairy products. The first signs of allergic reactions are scratching, licking, biting or rubbing the skin. This can lead to infection characterized by red bumps and pimples. Because of the discomfort, it is important to get professional help as soon as possible.

Bacterial Infection

A bacterial infection is common, but is usually secondary to another underlying disease such as an allergy. Treatment for bacterial infections may include antibiotics— either given orally or topically. It is important to seek professional help to treat the bacterial infection while searching for the underlying disease.

Hot Spots or Acute Moist Dermatitis

Hot spots are usually a result of self-trauma and occur as your pet tries to relieve itself from some pain or itch. Treatment includes thorough cleaning, topical and systemic antibiotics, and anti-inflammatory agents.

Pyoderma

Pyodermas include a wide range of infections that result in the formation of pus. Pyodermas vary in severity. Treatment is similar to that for hot spots, but typically is longer-term. Shampoos and rinses are also helpful.

Atopy or Allergic Inhalant Dermatitis

Atopy is a very itchy skin disease that is the result of allergies to microscopic particles in the air.  Diagnosis is based on clinical presentation and absence of other causes such as ectoparasites.

Treatment includes dietary supplements, antihistamines and steroids and is often long term.  In refractory cases, skin allergin testing and hyposensitization may be helpful.  Shampoos and rinses are also often helpful.

Ectoparasites (external parasites)

External parasites include mites, fleas and ticks. These parasites break the barrier formed by the skin and allow bacterial infections to occur. They also may lead to allergic conditions. Diagnosis is achieved with gross observation and microscopic examination of skin scrapings.  Treatment depends on the parasites present and includes anti-parasitic drugs and anti-parasitic shampoos and rinses.

Fungal Infections: These include Malassezia sp., Dermatophytosis (Ring Worm) and Dermal Coccidioidomycosis. Diagnosis is achieved via culture of the organisms, microscopic examination of skin scrapings, and blood tests that identify antibodies for Coccidioides immitis. Treatment includes topical and systemic anti-fungal drugs and anti-fungal shampoos and rinses.

Food allergies

Food allergies often manifest themselves as skin problems. Food allergies are usually diagnosed by ruling out other possible conditions. Treatment is trial feeding of hypoallergenic diets for a minimum of six weeks.

Irritant Contact Dermatitis

Contact allergies are diagnosed based on history of contact and clinical presentation. Treatment involves washing the exposed areas to remove the irritant. Patients experiencing itching are given steroids for a short period of time. It is important to prevent re-exposure.

Autoimmune Skin Diseases

There are several autoimmune skin diseases, and the foundation of diagnosis is surgical biopsy. Treatment includes combinations of dietary supplementation, steroids and immune modulation drugs.

Secondary Skin Disease

Secondary skin diseases, such as hypothyroidism, are diagnosed via clinical testing for the underlying disease.  Diagnosis often requires blood tests, biopsies and X-rays.  Treatment of the underlying condition usually results in improvement of the skin problems.

Diagnosis and Treatment

Your pet’s skin problems often combine two or more of the previously mentioned diseases.  For example, flea infestation hypersensitivity can lead to pyoderma.  Because of the complicated interactions between the skin and other organs within the body, and due to skin’s varied response to insult, diagnosis and treatment of skin diseases may be difficult and time consuming.

The skin scrape is the mainstay of diagnoses.  Several small areas of your pets skin are shaved to remove hair.  A scalpel blade is used to scrape up the top layers of skin.  The resulting material is viewed under a high-powered microscope.  In addition to skin scrapes, blood tests and surgical biopsies are necessary to diagnose some skin diseases.

Treatment of skin disease may include steroids, antibiotics, antihistamines, topical drugs, anti-fungal drugs, shampoos and rinses, dietary supplementation, or modification and surgical removal of masses. In some cases, therapy must be continued for months, and even for life.

If your pet is healthy according to the vet, but in general has dry itchy skin and coat.  You can naturally improve your dog and cats dry skin and coat by supplementing omega 3 6 9 oils into their diet.  Click Here to view Omega 369 for pets.

(Information provided by Dr. Brett Hinsch, Animal Health Hospital.)

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